Road Trip Around West USA
Twenty One Days, Four States, Seven National Parks, 2000 Miles and over 30 hours behind the wheel. And two good cups of coffee.
This one was one of my favourites. I spent many a morning in a coffee shop researching and planning every detail which I loved nearly as much as the trip itself. I did a similar route with my family when I was 10 so was looking forward to going back. Below, I've given a snapshot of the itinary as well as some more detailed stories of my adventures, including where I ate and stayed.
At the time I was living in Sydney so flew SYD to LAX and then took a connecting flight to San Fransisco. I stayed there for a couple of nights before heading back to the airport to pick up the car. In total I spent 21 days driving around the west of the USA.
Anything I'd change? If I were to do it again I'd probably not try and cram as much in as there was a lot of driving but still loved every minute of it.
Top tips
1. Download Google maps onto your phone before you leave. This is a given for any trip but even more so when driving. You are bound to drive into an area with no data and you don't want to get lost
2. Make the long drives a little more fun with the number plate game. I played this as a kid when I was with my family 30 years ago and it was still just as fun (and as hard to find Rhode Island) as an adult. Try and spot all 50 states. You'll find yourself scouring car parks trying to find those less common ones.
Itinerary
Day 1 - 5: San Fran to Yosemite
A pit stop in San Fransisco to get over the Jet Lag and enjoy some yummy food and steep hills (and a creepy hostel) and on to Yosemite to enjoy some of the best hikes the US has to offer.
Highlights: Getting soaked hiking up the Mist Trail at Yosemite
Lowlights: Probably the first night in a weird hostel but luckily saw the funny side
Day 6 - 8 Death Valley to Las Vegas
A LONG 10 hour drive to Death Valley to enjoy some 45 degree heat and views over Dante's Peak and then on to Las Vegas.
Highlights: Cooling off in the pool
Low Lights: Having to turn the air con off in the car in Death Valley so it didn't over heat and breakdown. Sweaty.
Day 9 - 19 The Canyons and National Parks
I took it up a notch for the second half of my trip and treated myself to some of the best glamping experiences in Bryce Canyon, Zion National Park, Lake Powell, Grand Canyon and Joshua Tree. Finally ending in LA before flying home
Highlights:
- Seeing Rhode Island number plate while in the Grand Canyon
- Horseshoe Bend
San Fransisco
Day 1
I was lucky enough to be joined by my good friend Charlotte on the first half of this trip which took the edge off the whole driving-on-the-wrong-side-of-the-road situation. We met in San Fransisco (apparently they don't like it when you call it San Fran) and headed to the accommodation I had booked. Not the best start. It was creepy as F.
I knew it was a shared space but the set up had looked a lot more premium on Booking.com. Something stylish and minimalist—Scandi chic, maybe? The reception desk was right by the front door, and beyond that? Just rows of plywood bunk beds. No doors. No walls. Just a room of silent, fully grown men lying on their beds, staring at their phones. In the middle of the day. Nobody spoke. Nobody moved. Just the occasional flicker of a screen illuminating a face that had definitely seen things. Oh, and the odd name written on the bed in chalk. As if me knowing your name - George - is going to make me want to walk over and say hello
Me and Char looked at each other and we both knew we didn't want to stay. We tried to whisper to each other about what to do but it was so quiet everyone could hear what we were saying. And then we couldn't stop laughing.
Anyway, the only way to resolve this kind of issue is a good dinner and good wine. We got ready and headed to a Japanese restaurant around the corner called Mamanoko which was fabulous. Just what we needed. Sat up at the bar, we deliberated our next steps - where to stay, how much is too much, should we order another round of brussel sprouts. (They were to die for)
In the end, after multiple wines, we decided we were far to British to walk out of the hostel at 10 pm, suitcases in tow, despite the strong horror movie vibes, so we decided to grin and bear one night and booked ourselves into a bougie hotel for the following night.
Day 2
Today we booked a trip to Alcatraz, but before we made our way to the retired prison, we decided to stop by Reveille on Chestnut Street for a coffee and bagel. Having spent six years in Australia, I’m officially a coffee snob, and I can confirm, Reveille did not disappoint. The coffee was solid, and the breakfast bagel was spot on. We quickly realised that from here on out, most breakfasts would consist of cheese, egg, and some form of bread. Oh, and this would be the last decent coffee for a while.
Yosemite
Day 3 (Driving day)
Today, we woke up in San Francisco and made our way to the airport to pick up the car. The drive to Yosemite was about four or five hours, and by the time we arrived at our campsite—about 30 minutes outside the National Park—it was already 5 pm. I had originally wanted to stay at Curry Village inside the park where I stayed with my family 30 years ago, but of course, it was fully booked. Instead, we ended up in what they call a "tent cabin"at Indian Flat RV Park. It's as basic as it sounds—just a bed and not much else—but you can opt for a "structured cabin" if you want a kitchenette or, if you're feeling adventurous, you can pitch your own tent. There's a bar on-site that serves food, but don't get your hopes up—it’s pretty average.
Day 4
We got up early to head into the National Park, hoping to beat the crowds. You can grab a National Park pass at the entrance, which we did, opting for the Annual Pass since it worked out to be the most cost-effective option given the number of parks we planned to visit.
We hadn’t even made it into the park before we pulled over to take in the views. Absolutely stunning. The weather was perfect. Not a cloud in the sky. We drove a little further and, as we rounded a corner, there it was—El Capitan, standing tall in all its glory. The view was so dramatic, I was buzzing.
It was a pretty laid-back day of exploring. We hiked part of the Valley Loop Trail and visited Lower Yosemite Falls, getting soaked as we walked through multiple rainbows. Later we took the car up to Tunnel View to look down over El Captain, Bridalveil Fall and the valley.
Day 5
I wanted to challenge myself a bit more today. Was a little gutted that Glacier Point Road and Taft Point were still closed due to snow but I decided to take on the Mist Trail instead, heading up to the top of Vernal and Nevada Falls. Definitely a highlight of the whole trip.
As I approached Vernal Falls, taking care not to slide off the slippery steps, I had to catch my breath and try not to hyperventilate as the freezing cold 'mist' drenched every part of me. Definitely a good way to wake yourself up. Once I found a dry spot in the sun, I had to strip off completely, including my socks, to dry off before onto the next waterfall.
The path up to Nevada Falls is a lot quieter which was a relief. It got a little more challenging but nothing too hard. One mistake I made was not packing enough water or snacks. By the time I reached the top I was pretty hungry and thirsty but it didn't matter as I felt on top of the world. Views for days and leaning over and watching the stampede of white water rumble over the edge was unreal. I could have stayed up there for hours. But of course, I had no data, and I’d told Charlotte I’d be back by 5.30pm. It was already 4.00pm, and I knew it was going to take more than an hour and a half to get down.
By the time I made it back, my legs were dead, and I was ravenous, so we grabbed pizza at Curry Village before heading back to camp.
Death Valley and Las Vegas
Day 6
Today was all about driving. I think we clocked about 10 hours in total. We started off with a quick pit stop at Sticks coffee shop and I have to say, we were pleasantly surprised. Definitely not a bad way to kick off the long drive.
I won’t bore you with too many details since the day was mostly uneventful, but here's a tip: know where the petrol stations are, don’t let it get too low, and take plenty of water. Once you hit the desert, there’s nothing for miles, and you’ll pass multiple signs warning you to turn off the air conditioning to avoid your car overheating. So, yeah, it’s hot. Also, make sure you’ve got a solid playlist for the journey.
There are only two places to stay in Death Valley - The Ranch, the cheaper option, where we stayed and The Inn. Both come with pools, which is pretty much the only place you want to be in that kind of heat. So we made the most of it.
Day 7
We didn’t quite get through everything on the list, mainly because it was just too hot to be outside for long. We did manage to drive up to Dante’s Point, where it was a bit cooler, and I got a photo in the same spot I stood with my dad when I was a kid. After that, it was straight back to the hotel to do the only sensible thing—float in the pool and try not to faint.
Day 8
Today we drove to Las Vegas. If I were to do this trip again, I’d probably skip both Death Valley and Vegas. Don’t get me wrong, they helped break up the drive between Yosemite and the Canyons, but I’d suggest making them separate trips instead.
We stayed in Downtown Vegas and Ubered to the Strip. Not having planned anything, we ended up missing out on all the good spots, so we spent the afternoon at an average rooftop pool bar, sipping fluorescent frozen drinks and people-watching. For dinner, we ended up in a restaurant inside a shopping centre, in a hotel, in a fake Venice. I’m not the biggest fan of Vegas, to be honest, but I think it could have been a lot better if I’d actually bothered to do some research beforehand.
Bryce Canyon
Day 9
The drive from Las Vegas to Bryce took about 7 hours with a few stops at Starbucks along the way. I can’t believe I’ve reached the point where I’m considering Starbucks the ultimate coffee. Dark times. But it gives you an idea of what we're working with here.
As I mentioned, the accommodation in the second half of the trip became a little more upmarket. Kicking off my glamping experience with Oflands which turned out to be one of my favourites. It’s smaller and more intimate than some of the other spots, which made it feel even more special.We stayed in a beautifully designed cabin, but they also offer Airstreams and camping plots if that's your thing.
There’s a pool, a communal area with fire pits, and even a drive-in cinema. Plus, a little shop where you can pick up chef-prepared dinner packages to heat up on your own private BBQ—including veggies and s’mores. The whole marinated chicken? AMAZING.
Tonight we just chilled. We sat outside our cabin with a bottle of wine, grilled dinner under the stars, and watched a storm roll in while melting marshmallows over the fire. Pretty perfect really.
Day 10
Before heading off to Bryce Canyon we checked out the "drive in" cinema which had a collection of old school cars. Got the obligatory Insta shot with the Cadillac while waiting for our brekkie from the food truck. Scoffed down the usual egg, cheese and bread, and free filter coffee and then jumped in the car to check out the orange hoodoos.
We started off with a gentle stroll along the Rim Trail, which runs along the top of the Canyon from Sunset Point to Sunrise Point. I then headed off solo down into the Canyon via Queen’s Garden and then joined up with the Navajo Loop. The latter took me about an hour, hour and a half max.
Back at the ranch, we ordered burgers and chips from the food van, finished off the bottle of wine in the communal area and made s’more sandwiches over the fire as dark rolled in.
Zion National Park
Day 11
Today was the day Char headed back to the UK and left me to fend for myself. I dropped her off at George so she could catch the coach to Las Vegas and I headed off on my own to Zion National Park. Luckily it was only 30mins down the road. Unluckily, the second I pulled onto the freeway, my phone overheated and shut off completely. No GPS, no directions, just me not knowing where I was going, hoping for the best. Pro tip: don’t leave your phone in the car without the air con on.
It all worked out in the end and I pulled into AutoCamp Zion National Park 30 minutes later. OMG this was a treat. The views from the camp were insane. Towering cliffs, deep red rock, the whole place glowing in the late afternoon sun. This spot was a lot bigger than Oflands in Bryce but just as beautiful.
I was staying in a airstream which was kitted out with a sleek bathroom and kitchen. I dropped off my bags and wandered over to the pool for a cold beer and a bit of research on what hike I was going to attempt tomorrow.
Later, I ordered dinner from the Kitchen and sat out reading my book until the sun went down.
Day 12
I didn't get a permit for Angels Landing and I think The Narrows was closed due to flooding so I found a few walks that I could do with decent views. I'll just have to come back and do them another time. I parked quite far out and jumped onto the bus into the National Park. I started with Emerald Pools Trail, up to the upper pool and back and then walked alongside the river until the start of the Narrows trail where you can't go any further due to water levels.
Back at camp, AutoCamp were celebrating their grand opening, which meant live music, chefs grilling up some incredible food, and High West Distillery serving sunset whisky cocktails (and giving away free whisky glasses). I sat out on the patio, drink in hand, watching the sun dip behind the cliffs before settling in for a bit of stargazing.
Day 13
After enjoying a lukewarm filter coffee and a dry pancake in the sun, I headed off for day two in Zion National Park. This time, I drove into the park as I wanted to check out the Canyon Overlook Trail which is on the other side of the tunnel but first I tackled Watchman's trail which is a pretty easy, there and back walk. It's totally exposed in the sun though, so water, hat and sunscreen were a must. This one isn't as well known so I was lucky enough to have the whole trail to myself.
Lake Powell
Day 14
Sad to be leaving Zion and AutoCamp but onto the next. The drive to Lake Powell took around 3 hours and I arrived at Under Canvas just in time for lunch. Except they don't serve food during the day so I bought some nuts from the shop to try and keep me going until dinner.
Another cracking view with safari tents that blended in nicely with the landscape. Beautifully designed with perfectly styled furnishings, proper king side beds, a toilet and shower inside - though the shower was one of those pull-chain setups, which took some coordination. There is no electricity but they provide battery packs to charge your phone. There is also no wifi here which was a welcomed break from civilisation.
I spent the afternoon just wandering around camp, taking photos, and soaking it all in. The wind picked up later, and you really feel it (and hear it) inside the tent—canvas flapping, ropes creaking.
Ended the say reading my book as the sun went down with a glass of wine.
Day 15
After breakfast, I headed off on a guided tour of Antelope Canyon. The one that had its 15 minutes of pop culture fame in a Britney Spears music video back in the early noughties. Incredible. Narrow, sandy walkways winding between towering, twisted orange formations, with beams of light slicing through cracks in the ceiling. If you time it right (and dramatically throw sand into the air, as encouraged by the guides), the light catches it just right, making it look like some kind of ethereal spirit.See photos below. Absolutely unbelievable that this is real.
On the way back, I made a quick pit stop at Horseshoe bend. With no expectations of what I would find at the end of the long walk way, I was blown away. Definitely one of my highlights. It is huge - way bigger than I'd pictured and absolutely stunning. A storm was rolling in, thick dark cloud creeping in over the horizon, making the whole thing feel way more dramatic. There’s no barrier at the edge, so you can wander right up to the drop, which is equal parts exhilarating and terrifying. The number of people teetering on the rim, contorting themselves into increasingly risky positions for the Insta shot, was enough to send my anxiety through the roof. I snapped a few photos from a safe distance, took it all in, and left them to it.
Grand Canyon and Joshua Tree
Day 16
Today is Grand Canyon day. But first—another quick stop at Horseshoe Bend because, honestly, I couldn’t get enough of it. There were blue skies today so it was great seeing it in a different light and gave me an excuse to take another hundred photos.
The drive to the Grand Canyon took a couple of hours, and the second half was a dream. One long, empty road stretching ahead, nothing but open landscape and my Lewis Capaldi playlist for company. Stopped by the park before heading to Under Canvas, since it’s a little further out. Also saw a moose on the side of the road, which felt like a very wholesome addition to the day.
The views from camp weren’t quite on the level of Zion or Lake Powell, but the setup was still impressive. Walking back to my tent at night, however, was a different story. Despite the little solar-powered lamps lining the path, it was still dark. My tent was the furthest away, right at the edge of camp, with nothing but wilderness beyond it. Every rustle in the bushes sounded like an impending wildlife encounter, and I was acutely aware that a single piece of zipped-up canvas was all that separated me from whatever was lurking in the dark.
At one point, lying in bed, I was convinced a bear (or a monster) was circling the outside of my tent. For a good few minutes my heart was racing before I realised it was, in fact a fly. Buzzing around the inside of the side lamp, casting huge shadows on the side of the tent.
Day 17
Back to Grand Canyon Village today for a hike down into the canyon and back up again. Still can’t wrap my head around the fact that this place just exists. Miles and miles of deep reds, pinks, and oranges stretching as far as you can see. Absolutely unreal.
The hike took an unexpected turn when we got stuck midway for about an hour while a helicopter swooped in to rescue a woman who’d broken her ankle. Full harness situation, crew working like a well-oiled machine—it was quite the spectacle. Definitely added a bit of unexpected drama to the day.
Back at the car park, I spotted a Rhode Island number plate, which, if you’ve been playing along, is a big deal. Genuinely might have been the highlight of my afternoon. Probably more chuffed about it than one should admit, but here we are.
Day 18
The end of the trip is fast approaching, and today was another long drive. I really struggled with this one. The last couple of hours were just one endless stretch of road through the desert, not a soul in sight. It felt like I was stuck in some kind of time loop—every time I glanced at the clock, only a single minute had passed. Pure agony.
Finally rolled into AutoCamp Joshua Tree around 5 pm, grabbed myself a margarita, and collapsed by the pool for the rest of the afternoon. Food options here were a bit disappointing—eye-wateringly expensive for what was essentially a glorified microwave meal. I could have ventured out for something better, but honestly, the setting at sunset was so gorgeous that I was perfectly happy with a glass of wine and my book.
Day 19 and 20
Keeping things low-key today—after weeks of early starts and long drives, I’m officially exhausted. I headed to Joshua Tree National Park for a wander, snapped some photos of the trees and Skull Rock, then made my way back to camp to collapse by the pool. On the drive back, I couldn't believe my eyes—right in front of me, a Hawaii number plate. Hawaii and Rhode Island in one trip. What are the chances? A true road trip jackpot.
And just like that, it was over. The next morning, I packed up, drove to LA for one final night, then hopped on a flight back to the UK. The end.
